Tree Care
Staking and Guying
The purpose of staking and guying is to hold the root ball in place
while the roots become established in the new soil. It is okay for the
tree trunk to bend with the breeze so that the tree adapts to the wind.
Stake and guy if the tree is tall and skinny or exposed to strong winds.
Position two or three stakes outside the planting hole. Use grommeted
fabric straps around the trunk of the tree, and wire or rope to attach
the straps to the stakes. Place the straps around the lower portion
of the trunk and leave enough slack that the tree’s top can still
move in the wind. Remove the straps and staking within two growing seasons.
Mulching
Mulch includes bark chips, wood chips, and gravel. You may use a weed-barrier
fabric under the mulch, but do not use plastic because it will not allow
the soil to breathe (tree roots need oxygen). Keep the mulch out of
contact with the tree trunk to avoid moist bark conditions and prevent
decay. A layer 2-4 inches, depending on the mulch material is sufficient.
Periodically refresh the mulch if it decomposes. Mulching the area from
the trunk out to the branch tips can significantly enhance growing conditions.
Benefits include: retention of soil moisture, weed and grass control,
protection of trunk from lawn mower injuries, prevention of soil compaction,
improved appearance, enhanced soil fertility.
Watering
Summertime: Deep, less frequent watering is better than shallow
frequent watering. Encourage the roots to reach out beyond the root
ball by watering beyond the branches. Frequency of watering will depend
upon mulching, temperature, and wind. The tree should be watered when
the top three to four inches of soil are dry.
Other seasons: Trees need moisture all year round. Autumn is
a critical watering period to ensure the tree goes into dormancy with
enough water. During warm dry periods in the winter, test the soil for
frost depth. If a screwdriver is easily inserted into the ground four
to five inches, water during late morning.
Avoiding Injuries
• Remove all plastic nursery tags.
• Do not tie an animal to the trunk.
• Keep grass away from trunk to avoid injury from mower blades
and weed eaters.
• Park cars and heavy equipment away from trees to prevent soil
compaction.
• If a tree is injured, use a sharp knife to cut away the splintered
material and loose bark. New growth from the tree will cover smooth
areas faster than rough areas.
• Do NOT apply wound dressing. It will not stop rot or help a
tree recover. A tree has its own repair mechanism: sap.
Pruning
A properly pruned tree maintains its natural form, is less prone to
insect and disease problems, and lives longer than an improperly pruned
tree. Topping trees is the single most destructive thing that can be
done to a tree. Do NOT top your tree. Always have a purpose in mind
before a cut is made. Proper technique is essential to benefit the tree
rather than harm it. Pruning cuts are made just outside the branch collar.
The branch collar is a slight swelling at the branch junction.
Figure 1: Trees have both branches and stems that
look like branches called codominant stems. If a codominant stem must
be removed, cut at an angle outside of the bark ridge as shown in
the insert at right. Avoid leaving any stub. |
(Figure 1) The collar contains the plant cells to
cover the wound. Remove dead and dying branches and rubbing branches.
Remove weaker branches. The narrower the angle between branches, the
weaker the connection. Limit the tree to one main stem. Use a 3-step
method to remove branches.
Figure 2: When removing heavy limbs, first make
an undercut several inches outside of the collar. Then remove limb
by a second cut an inch or so outside of first cut. Remove stup with
a third cut just outside of collar. |
(Figure 2) First, make an undercut about half way
through the branch. Outside of the undercut, make a second cut from
the topside of the branch. These two cuts remove the weight of the branch
and lessen the chance of stripping the bark below the cut. The third
step is to make the proper pruning cut just outside of the branch collar.
The cut will be closer to a 45-degree angle from the trunk rather than
flush with the trunk when done properly. (illustration) If reducing
the tree height or spread, follow the one-third rule. The remaining
branch must be at least one-third the diameter of the branch removed.
Do not remove more than one-third of the tree branches in a single
year. Do not prune when the tree first leafs out in spring, or in the
fall just before the leaves drop. In the spring, the tree needs the
new leaves to manufacture food after living off stored energy during
the winter. In the fall, it is critical to get the energy from the leaves
into the root system. Limit pruning on trees planted 1-3 years ago to
dead and rubbing branches. Address a double-stem top by reducing the
height of the stem to be removed in a later year. Branches chosen as
part of the permanent tree structure should be well-spaced vertically
along the trunk, and around the trunk.
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